Neighbors include Accounting Solutions and George’s Port Bar. The strip-center architecture redefines plain. There’s no water view, just an endless stream of neon along Gulf Boulevard. And there’s more asphalt than greenery outside.

But the restaurant Fetishes shines in this setting like a new silver dollar in a mound of old pennies. Draperies block the banal street scene. Plants cool the room. Classical music and soft cove lighting calm the spirit, while in the kitchen, creativity flourishes.

With eight tables and eight entrees, Fetishes caters to diners who value intimacy. The owner greets them at the door, takes the order, opens the wine, serves the dinner, and offers the check.

Some will groan that we’ve uncovered a secret by spilling the beans on Fetishes, and to those regulars, we apologize. A word of warning: This tiny eatery can fill up quickly. Reservations are a good idea.

The Tampa Tribune